‘New Mexican’ Jewelry
As purveyors of fine jewelry here in Albuquerque, New Mexico, we see or hear questions about ‘New Mexican’ jewelry pretty frequently. The truth of the matter is, when people are searching for that they are actually looking for something a little bit different, a bit more complex. This time on the blog, we wanted to address that. We’re talking, not about New Mexican jewelry, but Navajo jewelry and how they came to be.
Old Smith
Back in the 19th century, the Navajo or Diné people, began to work with silver. It all started, well, may have started with a man named Atsidi Sani. Atsidi Sani, which means ‘Old Smith.’ He was known by many other names throughout the southwest including Beshiltheeni (Metal Worker, Knife Maker), Herrero (Iron Worker), Herrero Delgado (Thin Smith). He learned to blacksmith roughly around the year 1853. Shortly about thereafter, he began to work in silver.
Silver Starts
The early Navajo silver smiths began with simple, plain silver metal that had been melted down from flatware, coins, and ingots obtained through traders. Eventually they were able to use sheet silver and others acquired from American settlers. The tradition way of decorating these pieces was to rocker-engrave, file, and stamp designs into the silver. The tools also got upgraded as further contact between American and Mexican peoples. Using things like railroad spurs, broken files and iron scraped became replaced with commercially made stamps and tools.
Bold Molds
Around 1875 saw another innovation in Navajo silversmithing techniques. They began to sand cast silver pieces! Silver would be melted down and filled into a mold that was carved from sandstone. After it had set and cooled the piece would still require further smoothing and filing but would be well on its way.
Turquoise Twist
Think about a piece of Navajo jewelry? Hold it in your mind… got it? You’re thinking of a silver bracelet worked around pieces of turquoise right? Maybe a necklace? Well, believe it or not turquoise didn’t take over the Navajo jewelry scene until at least 1880! Around the same time other semi-precious stones and coral began to see use as well.
These beautiful creations are entwined so closely with the American Southwest that it can be forgotten that they are not ‘New Mexican’ or ‘Arizonan’ jewelry, but of the peoples who were here first in these areas, the Navajo.
While Navajo jewelry can be a perfect addition to any collection, you may find you want something even more custom to your tastes. In that instance, give us a call here at Lonnie’s Custom Jewelers and we can help find or make the perfect piece for you!
